the Long Awaited arrival of the Shawlini pattern

Notes: This pattern uses U.S. terminology.

Materials:
1 skein Araucania Chaiten and Size L hook,
or 1 skein Noro Taiyo sock yarn and Size I hook (I have found that a plastic hook works well with this yarn),
or 2 skeins Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi and size I hook.

or 290-320 yards of sock yarn

Gauge:
4 rows in patterned section = 3”
12 stitches in patterned section = 3”
Finished dimensions approximately 73″ wide, 9 1/2″ at center back. Gauge is not critical for this pattern.

This is worked with a loose stitch to get a lacy effect. If you substitute yarn you might want to reduce or increase the pattern repeats in the “patterned increase” and “patterned decrease” sections by 8 rows each. You may also choose to do the 2 row or 3 row edging.

You will be working from side to side for the body of the scarf.

All increases and decreases happen on one side.
Special stitches:
V = (dc, ch 1, dc) in one st, counts as 3 stitches
ch 3 counts as dc

abbreviations (U.S. terminology)
ch = chain                tr = treble crochet
sc = single crochet            sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet            sk = skip
hdc = half double crochet        sp = space

PATTERN

Beginning Double Crochet Increase Section
Row 1: ch 4, dc in 1st ch made (2 st.) turn
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in turning ch (3 st.) turn
Row 3: ch 3, dc in dc, dc in top of turning ch (3 st.) turn
Row 4: ch 3, dc, (2 dc) in turning ch (4 st,) turn
Row 5: ch 3, dc in each dc across, dc in turning ch (4 st.) turn
Row 6: ch 3, dc in each dc across, (2 dc) in turning ch (5 st.) turn
Row 7: ch 3, dc in each dc across, dc in turning ch (5 st.) turn
Row 8: ch 3, dc in each dc across, (2 dc) in turning ch (6 st.) turn
Row 9: ch 3, dc in each dc across, dc in turning ch (6 st.) turn
Row 10: ch 3, dc in each dc across, (2 dc) in turning ch (7 st.) turn
Row 11: ch 3, dc in each dc across, dc in turning ch (7 st.) turn
Row 12: ch 3, dc in each dc across, (2 dc) in turning ch (8 st.) turn
Row 13 ch 3, dc in each dc across, dc in turning ch (8 st.) turn
Row 14: ch 3 dc in each dc across, (2 dc) in turning ch (9 st.)

Patterned increase section
V = (dc, ch 1, dc) in one st, counts at 3 st
dc in V = dc in ch 1 sp of V st

Row 1: ch 3, sk dc, V, sk dc, dc, sk dc, V, sk dc, dc in turning ch, turn
Row 2: ch 3, dc in dc at base of ch, dc in V, V in dc, dc in V, V in turning ch (1 increase made) turn
Row 3: ch 3, dc in dc at base of ch, * dc in ch sp, dc in next 3 dc repeat from * across ending with dc in turning ch (1 increase made) turn
Row 4: ch 3, dc in each st across ending with dc in turning ch, turn
Row 5: ch 3, dc in dc at base of ch, sk dc, * dc in dc, sk dc, V in dc, sk dc repeat from * ending with dc in turning ch, turn
Row 6: ch 3, dc in dc at base of ch, dc in V, V in dc, repeat from * across ending by skipping very last dc, and working (2 dc) in turning ch, (1 increase made) turn
Row 7: ch 3, dc in dc at base of ch, dc in next 2 dc * dc in ch 1 sp, dc in next 3 dc, repeat from * ending with dc in turning ch (1 increase made) turn
Row 8: ch 3, dc in each dc across ending with dc in turning ch

After the first 8 rows you will have 13 stitches

Repeat rows 1-8 four more times (3 times if using a heavier weight sock yarn)
Then repeat rows 1-3
Place a marker in the last row (center tip of scarf). You will have 31 st. at this point.

Patterned Decrease Section
Row 1: ch 3, dc in each st. across, skipping last dc, dc in top of turning ch, (1 decrease made, 30 st.), turn
Row 2: ch 3, sk dc, dc across ending with dc in turning ch (1 decrease made), turn
Row 3: ch 3, sk dc, V in next dc, sk dc, *dc in next dc, sk dc, V in next dc, sk dc, repeat from * across ending with dc in turning ch, turn
Row 4: ch 3, dc in V, * V in dc, dc in V, repeat from * across ending with (2 dc) in turning ch
(1 decrease made) turn
Row 5: ch 3, *dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 sp,  repeat from * across ending with dc, dc (do not work into turning ch) (1 decrease made) turn
Row 6: ch 3, dc in each dc across ending with dc in turning ch, turn
Row 7: ch 3, sk dc, *V in next dc, sk dc, dc in dc, sk dc, repeat from * across ending with (2 dc) in turning ch, turn
Row 8: ch 3, sk dc, *V in next dc, dc in V, repeat from * across ending with dc in turning ch (1 decrease made) turn
Row 9: ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, dc in ch 1 sp, *dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 sp, repeat from * across ending  with dc in dc, (do not work into turning ch), (1 decrease made) turn
Row 10: ch 3, dc in each dc across ending with dc in turning ch, turn

Repeat rows 3-10 four more times
Repeat rows 3 & 4
You will have 8 st. on final row 4

Double Crochet Decrease section
Row 1: ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 sp, dc in next 2 dc, dc in turning ch (8 st.) turn
Row 2: ch 3, sk dc, dc across ending with dc in turning ch (1 decrease made, 7 st.) turn
Row 3: ch 3, dc across ending with dc in turning ch, (7 st.) turn
Row 4: ch 3, sk dc, dc across ending with dc in turning ch (1 decrease made, 6 st.) turn
Row 5: ch 3, dc across ending with dc in turning ch, (6 st.) turn
Row 6: ch 3, sk dc, dc across ending with dc in turning ch, (1 decrease made, 5 st.) turn
Row 7: ch 3, dc across ending with dc in turning ch, (5 st.) turn
Row 8: ch 3, sk dc, dc across ending with dc in turning ch, (1 decrease made, 4 st.) turn
Row 9: ch 3, dc across ending with dc in turning ch, (4 st.) turn
Row 10: ch 3, sk dc, dc, dc in turning ch, (1 decrease made, 3 st.) turn
Row 11: ch 3, dc, dc in turning ch, (3 st.)
Row 12: ch 3, sk dc, dc in ch (1 decrease made, 2 st.)

Do not fasten off.
To help you keep your place you might want to mark off every 10 rows, plus an extra 6 rows before the tip which you should already have marked. There should be 113 rows.

Two Row edging for Araucania Chaiten Yarn
Turn your work to go back along the decreasing edge of the scarf.

Row 1:  do not chain, work dc along the edge working 2 dc into each row until you reach the tip marker. (If you have marked every 10 rows you will have 20 dc per each section you marked, plus 6 extra rows, 12 dc, right before the tip). You should have 112 st.
Work 3 dc into the tip row and replace marker in the 2nd dc of the tip. Now you will have       115 st.
Continue working across at 2 dc per row until you reach the other end of the scarf. You should now have 227 st (112 st. after the 3 dc of the tip)
turn
Row 2: ch 3, 3 dc in first st at base of ch, sk 3 st, *sc in next st, ch 3, (3 dc) in same st, sk 3 st, repeat from * across until you reach the dc before the tip. Sc in dc, ch 1, remove marker,
(3 dc, tr, 3 dc) in center stitch, ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, then repeat from * across ending with sc in last st.

Three Row edging for Taiyo Sock Yarn or Mini Mochi
Turn your work to go back along the decreasing edge of the scarf.

Row 1:  do not chain, work dc along the edge working 2 dc into each row until you reach the tip marker. (If you have marked every 10 rows you will have 20 dc per each section you marked, plus 6 extra rows, 12 dc, right before the tip). You should have 112 st.
Work 3 dc into the tip row and replace marker in the 2nd dc of the tip. Now you will have       115 st.
Continue working across at 2 dc per row until you reach the other end of the scarf. You should now have 227 st (112 st. after the 3 dc of the tip)
turn

Row 2: do not chain, work sc into each dc across until you reach the tip marker, work 3 sc into the tip and replace marker, continue working across in sc to the end of the scarf. You should have 229 st. (113 sc to center, 3 sc in center, 113 sc)
turn
Make sure you have the center sc marked. Also place a marker in the second sc before the tip.

Row 3: ch 3, 3 dc in first st at base of ch, sk 3 st, *sc in next st, ch 3, (3 dc) in same st, sk 3 st, repeat from * across until you reach the marker before the tip. Sc, ch 1, sk st, (3 dc, tr, 3 dc) in center st, ch 1, sk st, then repeat from * across ending with sc in last st.

Fasten off
For Taiyo Sock and Mini Mochi yarn wash and block. When blocking pull and pinch the ch 3 and dc at the tip of each point on the edging to make it look more triangular.
For Chaiten block with steam (you may use a steam iron being careful not to touch the yarn with the iron).

In the next post charts will be included.

© Kathy Kelly 2011 all rights reserved

You may make a copy of this pattern for your personal use. Please do not sell or distribute copies of this pattern. You may link to this pattern page. Copy made available courtesy of Knit 1 Chicago

© Kathy Kelly 2011

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11 Responses to the Long Awaited arrival of the Shawlini pattern

  1. Beverooni says:

    I don’t seen any yarn weight suggestions or hook sizes. I can’t wait to get started on this. It’s lovely.

    • vibeskat says:

      Sorry about that. I have added the information on the pattern. For Taiyo sock yarn use a size I hook. Photo uses Araucania Chaiten which I am told is discontinued. For that I used a size L hook.

      Any sock yarn should work, you might want to experiment to see what size hook makes the best looking stitch with your yarn.

  2. Susan Parker says:

    Your design is lovely. It would make wonderful gifts especially since it doesn’t use a lot of yarn.
    Thank you for also including the charts—–I love charts!
    Susan

  3. Amy Ukena says:

    Are those knitted leaves hanging on the tree behind your beautiful shawlini???? :-) Amy

    • vibeskat says:

      Yes, they are. The photo was taken in front of Knit 1 yarn store in Chicago. They had a yarn bombing of their tree. Somewhere on the tree there is also a crochet flower…

  4. Susan Parker says:

    I just finished the shawlini in Mini Mochi—–it’s absolutely wonderful!
    Because your instructions were so detailed I was able to increase it to make it slightly bigger.
    I used two skeins of yarn and had plenty.
    Thank you for such a well written pattern, I will definitely use it again.

    Susan Parker

  5. felicia says:

    How can I find a picture of the shawlini?
    Felicia

  6. Amber says:

    I finished row 14 of the start increase and am on to the pattern increase. So after row 14 I have 9 st. When I finish the 1st row of the pattern increase section I do as instructed and end up with the turning ch unworked

    I did the ch 3 turn skipped 1st stitch did v in 2nd sti skipped 3rd st did v in 4th st skipped 5th st did v in 6th st skipped 7th st dc in 8th st nd te turning ch is left should I be stitching into that as well so the 8th and 9th st have a dc in them?

    • vibeskat says:

      In the first row of the pattern increase section you ch 3, sk a dc, then V in next st, sk a stitch and then dc in next st. I think you have missed that dc.

      So to re-cap
      1st st of the row has the ch 3 under it
      st 2 is skipped
      st 3 has a V in it
      st 4 is skipped
      st 5 has a dc in it
      st 6 is skipped
      st 7 has a V in it
      st 8 is skipped
      and the turning ch, functioning as st 9 has a dc in it.

      I hope this clears things up.

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